The bandeja paisa, ranked by stomach capacity

We sent four staff members to seven restaurants. We have findings, we have regrets, and Mateo has a chiropractor recommendation.

Findings: the bandeja is not a competition. The best ones are the simplest — chicharrón that crackles, beans that taste of the bone they were cooked with, an arepa that holds its own without needing to apologize. The fancy ones are mostly worse.

Regrets: the bandeja at the famous tourist spot on Calle 10 is fine, charges three times the price, and the chorizo is from the supermarket.

Coming soon — the seven in order, with addresses and prices. Hint: number one is unmarked and doesn't take cards.